Holy crap, that sounds tedious. But, of course, many thanks for the pointer.
I wonder if the "EFI system partition (ESP)" could be a FAT formatted USB thumbdrive with some minimum set of files to get UEFI up then it redirects booting to continue from the otherwise independent ZFS-based system?
If there are any FreeBSD wizards or warriors out there who could help sort out this process, it seems like the recipe would be a nicety for other users. My system would certainly be in better shape. Without UEFI, the display is hideous; with it, the display looks pretty slick.